Collection How to Repair Samsung LCD/LED TV
1. Samsung LCD TV on Off Issue DIY Repair Fix
We had a Samsung 32" LCD TV go on the fritz recently. The television would turn on, then immediately turn itself off, then turn on again...in a never ending cycle. After doing a little research, we discovered that there had been a recall on these televisions due to faulty capacitors used during manufacture.
We also discovered the recall had ended a couple of years ago.
Not wanting to buy a new TV or pay an estimated $150 to have it repaired, I grabbed my trusty soldering iron and went to work. It turns out that for only $3-$6 in parts, you can fix this problem yourself. The only skills it takes are some basic soldering and desoldering techniques. Here are a couple of excellent Instructables written by other authors explaining these skills:
Now on to materials...
Step 1: Materials
Do do this repair (other than a faulty LCD tv), you will need*:
*Links point to the specific item I used.
**Do yourself a favor and make sure to buy braid or wick with flux already in it.
Step 2: Disassembly and Diagnosis
In almost every case, this particular issue is caused by one or more capacitors on the power supply board over heating. Finding an overheated capacitor is simple once you get the back off the television. Take pictures as you go in case you need to refer back to where things are, particularly on the circuit board.
Carefully remove the stand and the back of the television. Be sure you have a clean, flat surface to lay the television on face down, then remove the stand followed by the black screws around the outside of the back of the television. If all the screws have been removed, the back should lift up and off very, very easily. Do not force it.
The power supply board is on the right. If you look at the picture of the power supply, you will see a closeup of an burnt out capacitor. Notice the top is no longer flat, but has puckered up and separated. To remove the power supply board, Carefully unplug the two cables running to the board (one on the left and one on the top). Then unscrew the silver screws at the four corners. There will be an extra screw in the bottom left corner of the board where the power cord plugs in. This is noted on the picture. Do yourself a favor and screw the silver screws back into their holes so that you don't lose the screws or where they go.
Now we desolder...
Step 3: Out With the Bad Part...
We mount the board in the helping hands, noting where the bad capacitor is located on the underside. We then desolder the connections, and remove the part. Did you remember to note which way the capacitor was mounted? Did you take a picture? The easy way to remember which way the capacitor goes is to remember which side the vertical stripe was on. If you need help desoldering, just consult the Instructable at the beginning of this one.
Now we solder in the new one...
Step 4: ...In With the Good Part.
Making sure we have the capacitor mounted the right way, we now solder in the new capacitor. How did we know which capacitor to buy?
There are three key features that identify a capacitor. First, it's capacitance, second, it's voltage, and third, it's leads. There may also be a temperature specification as well. For our capacitor, all we need to identify a proper replacement is the nominal capacitance in micro-Farads (47µF), the working voltage in volts (160v), and finally, since both leads come out of the bottom, this is a radial capacitor (as opposed to an axial or snap-in capacitor).
I found ten of these on Amazon for 15 bucks. That's $1.50 to repair the TV, as opposed to paying $150. I don't mind buying 9 extra capacitors, because someday I may find a use for them.
Now we put it all back together right?
Step 5: Test First, Then Reassemble.
Replace the power supply board in the TV (aren't you glad you didn't lose those screws?), plug the two cables back in, and then plug the TV in and verify it is now working. If it isn't, did you solder the capacitor in the right direction (+/-)? Is there more than one capacitor burnt out that you missed?
If you have verified that the television is working properly, replace the back and the stand and then enjoy the fruits (and savings) of your labor!
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/Samsung-LCD-TV-On-Off-Issue-DIY-Fix/
DISCLAIMER - If you attempt to repair your own set, expect to void any warranty that might still exist. If you do additional damage, it's your own responsibility. Further, you are working with an appliance that is powered from you house mains. There is risk of shock with the potential of death or serious harm. Know what you are doing, and how to work safely with an electrical appliance.
Recently my 3+ year old 40" Samsung LCD TV started taking a long time to start up, with several cycles of relays clicking. In searching the net I found that others were having similar problems. Apparently, Samsung's power supply on several LCD models was somewhat under-designed, with four capacitors that slowly fail over time and which leads to the symptoms in the title.
There are several options for repair: 1) Take the set to a qualified repair shop (est $300 - $500). 2) Buy a new, replacement, power supply ($100 - $175). 3) Replace the offending capacitors ($4.00 - $15.00)
I chose option 3, spending $15.00 for a Samsung repair kit (contains 4-1000 uF, 25V, 105 degree C capacitors and "instructions"). If you want to keep the costs to a minimum, you can order an appropriate set of capacitors from Digi-Key or Mouser for about $0.65 each + s/h.
Tools you need:
Phillips screw driver able to reach recessed screws (about 1" deep)
Soldering Iron for general purpose electronic components.
Note: According to the Samsung repair kit instructions, this repair works with the following models:
LNT4042H
LNT4042HTX/XAA
LNT4053HTX/XAA
LNT4053HX/XAA
LNT4053HX/XAC
LNT405HAX/XAA
LNT4061F
LNT4061FX
LNT4061FX/XAA
LNT4061FX/XAC
LNT4061FX/XAP
LNT4065XF/XAA
LNT4066F
LNT4066FX/XAA
Step 1: Remove the Back of the Set
Place monitor face down on a cushioned table. Remove screws from cover and remove screws from the stand. (If stand is attached)
I have an optional wall mount setup, requiring removal of the wall mount hardware from the rear cover - a total of 4 screws.
Step 2: Disconnect and Remove the Power Supply
There are seven screws securing the power supply, as well as the various cable connecting to other components. Remove the cables, remove the screws, and then lift out the power supply.
IMPORTANT NOTE - While capacitors are not particularly sensitive to Electrostatic Discharge (ESD), most of the components on the power supply and other boards ARE! Take appropriate measure to avoid static discharge (grounding straps, etc.), or risk totally frying your set's electronics. Should this occur, you're no longer facing an inexpensive repair.
Step 3: Identify, De-Solder, and Remove the Failing Capacitors
There are four electrolytic capacitors to be removed: CM812, CM811, CM817, CS806. These are clearly noted on both the front and rear surfaces of the power supply's circuit board. (If you need a tutorial on how to de-solder "thru-hole" components, there are both text and video available on the net.)
You will likely see that the four capacitors of interest display bulging caps, and may even be leaking material. On my set, only one showed any leakage, but all four were bulging. The circuit they were used in is marked at 5.4V. Based on my readings in electronics, capacitors should, in general, be rated for a voltage that is at least double the planned circuit. Given that the original capacitors are rated at 10V, it would seem to indicate that fudging a bit here can lead to premature failure.
Step 4: Solder-in the Replacement Capacitors
The capacitors are polarized. This means you MUST pay attention to the positive and negative leads on the capacitors. The polarity is clearly identified on both the capacitors, there is a stripe down the side of a polarized capacitor with the minus sign, and the circuit board (both front and back indicate the polarity). Failure to match polarity is BAD. At the best, the capacitors will fail, in the worst case, they explode, and I assume, don't do anything good to the circuit board either.
Step 5: Replace the Repaired Power Supply and Attach the Rear Cover
Replace your newly repaired power supply, connect the internal cables to the other components. Re-attach the rear cover, stand (if used), or wall mount brackets. Attach the external cables (Video, Antenna, etc.). And, finally, plug in the power cord. If all has gone well, press the power button and you'll see your set power up as it did when it was new.
NOTE: The photo of my working TV is NOT representative of the image! The horizontal striations are an artifact.
Step 6: Other Resources
You may find the following useful:
Samsung LCD Power Supply Repair Kit - BN44-00167A
Samsung Replacement Power Supply - BN44-00167F
Digi-Key - www.digikey.com
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-Samsung-LCD-TV-Relay-Clicks-Shuts-Off-Wo/
3. Samsung TV On/Off Issue - Repair
A few years ago many Samsung TV models were produced with underrated capacitors on the power board of the TV. The result of this issue is a TV that will cycle between on and off repeatedly and/or an annoying clicking noise while turning on. Time to get informed about the issue and fix your TV your self!
Step 1: Get Familiar!
If you're having this issue click this link below!
http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/
It seems there is some money available or a possible repair to those with this issue that meet the qualifications listed. If you don't meet the qualifications, you're not interested in the red tape or just like the satisfaction of fixing things your self continue you reading and I will show you how to fix your TV for under 10$!
Some tools you'll need going forward are a screwdriver, a soldering gun and some solder. Time to get this ship sailing!
Step 2: Open Up the TV
Depending on your TV model you will have a different number of screws to open up the TV. They should all be located on the back and should all be pretty easy to spot. If the back won't come off easily you probably still have a screw in so keep looking. Also don't lose these, you'll need them later!
Step 3: Disconnect the Power Board
The board we're after should be a brown/beige color. Your TV might have and extra metal covering over it, go ahead and take that off. The other board you can see controls most of the main functions on your TV while the board we want regulates and distributes power to the TV. I'm going to recommend that you don't touch the main board at all.
Before we get at our board make sure your TV is unplugged. Even once unplugged the TV can hold a lethal amount of energy in some of the bigger capacitors so press the on/off switch on your TV a couple times to help discharge some of that. Even still, be very careful with what you touch paying special attention to the HOT section of the board and all big mad scientist looking components, especially if you don't know what they are or what they do.
Now that you've got an idea of what you're looking at go ahead and unplug all the wires connected to the power board. Each wire group should have a different number of headers and should only fit back into the slot it came from but take note of where they did come out of so you don't have to fumble the board when you're putting it back in later. Next unscrew the board and lift it out.
Set the board on a nonconductive surface and we'll check it out!
Step 4: Remove the Bad Capacitors
The bad capacitors should be pretty easy to spot. They'll have a notable bulge on the top and may even be leaking some electrolytic fluid. In my case two capacitors had gone bad, as seen in the picture. We're going to need to take these out in order to put some new ones in.
If you're a super safety freak you may want to discharge these capacitors before you try to take them out. You can do this by touching the ends of a resistor between the two ends of each capacitor on the bottom of the board. But unless you have a massive capacitor that is your problem child it really shouldn't be an issue.
Before you remove the capacitor identify first identify its polarity in the circuit. The capacitor should have a white stripe up the side, note where this is as you will want to put in the replacements with the white stripe on the same side.
To remove the capacitors first identify the where the leads attach to the circuit at the bottom of the board. Warm up your soldering gun and heat the contact point on the circuit while gentle pulling the capacitor out of the board. Don't be too forceful pulling it out and don't hold the soldering gun at the contact for too long, both could damage your TV. Just be patient and you'll get it out. Remove all the bad capacitors.
Step 5: Replacing the Bad Capacitors
Your bad capacitor should have a few numbers on it including a capacitance rating, a voltage rating and a temperature rating. You're going to want to find a capacitor with a similar capacitance and temperature rating to the one you removed. But go ahead and get one that has a higher voltage rating as you don't want to replace an underrated capacitor with another underrated capacitor. Also try to find on that is a similar diameter so it can fit in the spot it came from. Also make sure its a radial capacitor, axial leads will be too difficult to deal with. Look up prices on line, but you should be able to find what you need at your local radio shack or Fry's for cheap enough.
Place the capacitor back into the circuit remembering to orient the capacitor so it is has the correct polarity. Bend the leads out so it will stay in place as you solder. If you've never soldered before peep an instructable for some handy tips! Solder the sucker in place and be sure that your solder is not touching any other connection on the board (you don't want any shorts!). Repeat for each capacitor you need to replace.
Step 6: Reassemble the TV
Since you kept track of all your screws and connections, putting the TV back together should be a cinch! ;) As soon as the power board is connected again and screwed back in place plug in your TV and try to turn it on... Voila! Your TV should turn on and off just fine. If the problem persists, you may have over looked a bad capacitor so take it off and look a little more closely. Put the back of your TV back on and you should be ready just in time some Sunday morning cartoons! Enjoy
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/Samsung-TV-OnOff-Issue-Repair/
4. How to Fix a Broken TV
This was a very early project of mine which I completed back in 2012. It all came about when my PC monitor / TV stopped working. As you can appreciate this was rather annoying, especially when you are mid way through a university assignment.
Today we live in such a throwaway society I wanted to prove to myself that I didn't conform. When our parents were younger they fixed things, not just throw them away and buy a new one. So rather than buying a new one I decided to fix it.
Step 1: Fault Finding
This particular unit was a 22 inch Samsung TV which also had a VGA and HDMI input. The model number escapes me.
The TV started to flicker quite a lot then all of a sudden it just went black. Nothing seemed to bring it back. The power light was on, but nothing was on the screen.
Fault finding is by far the most difficult part of the whole operation. I had absolutely no clue how to go about finding the issue. But thankfully, I had Google. After an hour or so trawling Google I found a forum where someone was describing the exact same problem. The problem they described was to do with blown capacitors. They when on to say they paid £30 to have it fixed by a specialist TV Repair Company. This gave me more motivation to fix it.
Step 2: Tools Required
I don't have a photo for this step. but you'll need:
Step 3: Identifying the Problem
First off, you need to turn the TV off and remove the power cable. You will then need to carefully open the case up. This can be quite tricky as there are a number of plastic clips that can break easily. Once you have carefully cracked open the case and removed the board you will need to identify the offending parts.
In this case those parts were 2 820uF 25v capacitors. You can see in the picture that both these capacitors are bulged at the top indicating they are blown. You may also see an oozy liquid at the top too.
Step 4: Desoldering the Blown Capacitors
Once you've found the offending components you will need to remove them from the board.
First, it is a good idea to mark the polarity of the capacitors on the board. This just makes it easier when you come to pop in the new ones.
To remove the blow capacitors carefully heat the solder around the bottom of the pins. Once it's liquefied, use the solder sucker to get rid of it. Repeat this for all of the pins.
Step 5: Soldering
Once the old capacitors are removed it is simply a case of putting the new ones in their place. It is important to get the polarity right. Otherwise you'll finish up and it won't work.
I'm no soldering expert so the soldering part was quite tricky but I got there in the end. I learnt how to solder by watching YouTube videos on the subject. There are lots of good ones out there. It’s imperative that you make a good connection with the solder, otherwise, again, it won't work.
Step 6: Reassemble
The reassembly part is very simple as long as you can remember how you took it apart.
Connect the screen back up and screw in the boards and replace the cover. This can be quire tricky so be careful.
Step 7: Step Back and Admire
If it all went to plan it should spring back to live once you've connected it back to the power supply.
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-a-broken-TV/
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We also discovered the recall had ended a couple of years ago.
Not wanting to buy a new TV or pay an estimated $150 to have it repaired, I grabbed my trusty soldering iron and went to work. It turns out that for only $3-$6 in parts, you can fix this problem yourself. The only skills it takes are some basic soldering and desoldering techniques. Here are a couple of excellent Instructables written by other authors explaining these skills:
Now on to materials...
Step 1: Materials
Do do this repair (other than a faulty LCD tv), you will need*:
- Soldering Iron
- Desoldering Braid** or De-solder Vacuum Pump
- Solder
- Flux
- A replacement capacitor (more on this later)
- A Phillips Screwdriver
- Wire Clippers
- Helping Hand (optional)
*Links point to the specific item I used.
**Do yourself a favor and make sure to buy braid or wick with flux already in it.
Step 2: Disassembly and Diagnosis
In almost every case, this particular issue is caused by one or more capacitors on the power supply board over heating. Finding an overheated capacitor is simple once you get the back off the television. Take pictures as you go in case you need to refer back to where things are, particularly on the circuit board.
Carefully remove the stand and the back of the television. Be sure you have a clean, flat surface to lay the television on face down, then remove the stand followed by the black screws around the outside of the back of the television. If all the screws have been removed, the back should lift up and off very, very easily. Do not force it.
The power supply board is on the right. If you look at the picture of the power supply, you will see a closeup of an burnt out capacitor. Notice the top is no longer flat, but has puckered up and separated. To remove the power supply board, Carefully unplug the two cables running to the board (one on the left and one on the top). Then unscrew the silver screws at the four corners. There will be an extra screw in the bottom left corner of the board where the power cord plugs in. This is noted on the picture. Do yourself a favor and screw the silver screws back into their holes so that you don't lose the screws or where they go.
Now we desolder...
Step 3: Out With the Bad Part...
We mount the board in the helping hands, noting where the bad capacitor is located on the underside. We then desolder the connections, and remove the part. Did you remember to note which way the capacitor was mounted? Did you take a picture? The easy way to remember which way the capacitor goes is to remember which side the vertical stripe was on. If you need help desoldering, just consult the Instructable at the beginning of this one.
Now we solder in the new one...
Step 4: ...In With the Good Part.
Making sure we have the capacitor mounted the right way, we now solder in the new capacitor. How did we know which capacitor to buy?
There are three key features that identify a capacitor. First, it's capacitance, second, it's voltage, and third, it's leads. There may also be a temperature specification as well. For our capacitor, all we need to identify a proper replacement is the nominal capacitance in micro-Farads (47µF), the working voltage in volts (160v), and finally, since both leads come out of the bottom, this is a radial capacitor (as opposed to an axial or snap-in capacitor).
I found ten of these on Amazon for 15 bucks. That's $1.50 to repair the TV, as opposed to paying $150. I don't mind buying 9 extra capacitors, because someday I may find a use for them.
Now we put it all back together right?
Step 5: Test First, Then Reassemble.
Replace the power supply board in the TV (aren't you glad you didn't lose those screws?), plug the two cables back in, and then plug the TV in and verify it is now working. If it isn't, did you solder the capacitor in the right direction (+/-)? Is there more than one capacitor burnt out that you missed?
If you have verified that the television is working properly, replace the back and the stand and then enjoy the fruits (and savings) of your labor!
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/Samsung-LCD-TV-On-Off-Issue-DIY-Fix/
2. Repair Samsung LCD TV -Relay Clicks, Shuts Off, Won't Come On
Recently my 3+ year old 40" Samsung LCD TV started taking a long time to start up, with several cycles of relays clicking. In searching the net I found that others were having similar problems. Apparently, Samsung's power supply on several LCD models was somewhat under-designed, with four capacitors that slowly fail over time and which leads to the symptoms in the title.
There are several options for repair: 1) Take the set to a qualified repair shop (est $300 - $500). 2) Buy a new, replacement, power supply ($100 - $175). 3) Replace the offending capacitors ($4.00 - $15.00)
I chose option 3, spending $15.00 for a Samsung repair kit (contains 4-1000 uF, 25V, 105 degree C capacitors and "instructions"). If you want to keep the costs to a minimum, you can order an appropriate set of capacitors from Digi-Key or Mouser for about $0.65 each + s/h.
Tools you need:
Phillips screw driver able to reach recessed screws (about 1" deep)
Soldering Iron for general purpose electronic components.
Note: According to the Samsung repair kit instructions, this repair works with the following models:
LNT4042H
LNT4042HTX/XAA
LNT4053HTX/XAA
LNT4053HX/XAA
LNT4053HX/XAC
LNT405HAX/XAA
LNT4061F
LNT4061FX
LNT4061FX/XAA
LNT4061FX/XAC
LNT4061FX/XAP
LNT4065XF/XAA
LNT4066F
LNT4066FX/XAA
Step 1: Remove the Back of the Set
I have an optional wall mount setup, requiring removal of the wall mount hardware from the rear cover - a total of 4 screws.
Step 2: Disconnect and Remove the Power Supply
There are seven screws securing the power supply, as well as the various cable connecting to other components. Remove the cables, remove the screws, and then lift out the power supply.
IMPORTANT NOTE - While capacitors are not particularly sensitive to Electrostatic Discharge (ESD), most of the components on the power supply and other boards ARE! Take appropriate measure to avoid static discharge (grounding straps, etc.), or risk totally frying your set's electronics. Should this occur, you're no longer facing an inexpensive repair.
Step 3: Identify, De-Solder, and Remove the Failing Capacitors
There are four electrolytic capacitors to be removed: CM812, CM811, CM817, CS806. These are clearly noted on both the front and rear surfaces of the power supply's circuit board. (If you need a tutorial on how to de-solder "thru-hole" components, there are both text and video available on the net.)
You will likely see that the four capacitors of interest display bulging caps, and may even be leaking material. On my set, only one showed any leakage, but all four were bulging. The circuit they were used in is marked at 5.4V. Based on my readings in electronics, capacitors should, in general, be rated for a voltage that is at least double the planned circuit. Given that the original capacitors are rated at 10V, it would seem to indicate that fudging a bit here can lead to premature failure.
Step 4: Solder-in the Replacement Capacitors
The capacitors are polarized. This means you MUST pay attention to the positive and negative leads on the capacitors. The polarity is clearly identified on both the capacitors, there is a stripe down the side of a polarized capacitor with the minus sign, and the circuit board (both front and back indicate the polarity). Failure to match polarity is BAD. At the best, the capacitors will fail, in the worst case, they explode, and I assume, don't do anything good to the circuit board either.
Step 5: Replace the Repaired Power Supply and Attach the Rear Cover
Replace your newly repaired power supply, connect the internal cables to the other components. Re-attach the rear cover, stand (if used), or wall mount brackets. Attach the external cables (Video, Antenna, etc.). And, finally, plug in the power cord. If all has gone well, press the power button and you'll see your set power up as it did when it was new.
NOTE: The photo of my working TV is NOT representative of the image! The horizontal striations are an artifact.
Step 6: Other Resources
You may find the following useful:
Samsung LCD Power Supply Repair Kit - BN44-00167A
Samsung Replacement Power Supply - BN44-00167F
Digi-Key - www.digikey.com
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/Repair-Samsung-LCD-TV-Relay-Clicks-Shuts-Off-Wo/
3. Samsung TV On/Off Issue - Repair
Step 1: Get Familiar!
If you're having this issue click this link below!
http://www.samsung.com/us/capacitorsettlement/
It seems there is some money available or a possible repair to those with this issue that meet the qualifications listed. If you don't meet the qualifications, you're not interested in the red tape or just like the satisfaction of fixing things your self continue you reading and I will show you how to fix your TV for under 10$!
Some tools you'll need going forward are a screwdriver, a soldering gun and some solder. Time to get this ship sailing!
Step 2: Open Up the TV
Depending on your TV model you will have a different number of screws to open up the TV. They should all be located on the back and should all be pretty easy to spot. If the back won't come off easily you probably still have a screw in so keep looking. Also don't lose these, you'll need them later!
Step 3: Disconnect the Power Board
The board we're after should be a brown/beige color. Your TV might have and extra metal covering over it, go ahead and take that off. The other board you can see controls most of the main functions on your TV while the board we want regulates and distributes power to the TV. I'm going to recommend that you don't touch the main board at all.
Before we get at our board make sure your TV is unplugged. Even once unplugged the TV can hold a lethal amount of energy in some of the bigger capacitors so press the on/off switch on your TV a couple times to help discharge some of that. Even still, be very careful with what you touch paying special attention to the HOT section of the board and all big mad scientist looking components, especially if you don't know what they are or what they do.
Now that you've got an idea of what you're looking at go ahead and unplug all the wires connected to the power board. Each wire group should have a different number of headers and should only fit back into the slot it came from but take note of where they did come out of so you don't have to fumble the board when you're putting it back in later. Next unscrew the board and lift it out.
Set the board on a nonconductive surface and we'll check it out!
Step 4: Remove the Bad Capacitors
The bad capacitors should be pretty easy to spot. They'll have a notable bulge on the top and may even be leaking some electrolytic fluid. In my case two capacitors had gone bad, as seen in the picture. We're going to need to take these out in order to put some new ones in.
If you're a super safety freak you may want to discharge these capacitors before you try to take them out. You can do this by touching the ends of a resistor between the two ends of each capacitor on the bottom of the board. But unless you have a massive capacitor that is your problem child it really shouldn't be an issue.
Before you remove the capacitor identify first identify its polarity in the circuit. The capacitor should have a white stripe up the side, note where this is as you will want to put in the replacements with the white stripe on the same side.
To remove the capacitors first identify the where the leads attach to the circuit at the bottom of the board. Warm up your soldering gun and heat the contact point on the circuit while gentle pulling the capacitor out of the board. Don't be too forceful pulling it out and don't hold the soldering gun at the contact for too long, both could damage your TV. Just be patient and you'll get it out. Remove all the bad capacitors.
Step 5: Replacing the Bad Capacitors
Your bad capacitor should have a few numbers on it including a capacitance rating, a voltage rating and a temperature rating. You're going to want to find a capacitor with a similar capacitance and temperature rating to the one you removed. But go ahead and get one that has a higher voltage rating as you don't want to replace an underrated capacitor with another underrated capacitor. Also try to find on that is a similar diameter so it can fit in the spot it came from. Also make sure its a radial capacitor, axial leads will be too difficult to deal with. Look up prices on line, but you should be able to find what you need at your local radio shack or Fry's for cheap enough.
Place the capacitor back into the circuit remembering to orient the capacitor so it is has the correct polarity. Bend the leads out so it will stay in place as you solder. If you've never soldered before peep an instructable for some handy tips! Solder the sucker in place and be sure that your solder is not touching any other connection on the board (you don't want any shorts!). Repeat for each capacitor you need to replace.
Step 6: Reassemble the TV
Since you kept track of all your screws and connections, putting the TV back together should be a cinch! ;) As soon as the power board is connected again and screwed back in place plug in your TV and try to turn it on... Voila! Your TV should turn on and off just fine. If the problem persists, you may have over looked a bad capacitor so take it off and look a little more closely. Put the back of your TV back on and you should be ready just in time some Sunday morning cartoons! Enjoy
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/Samsung-TV-OnOff-Issue-Repair/
4. How to Fix a Broken TV
This was a very early project of mine which I completed back in 2012. It all came about when my PC monitor / TV stopped working. As you can appreciate this was rather annoying, especially when you are mid way through a university assignment.
Today we live in such a throwaway society I wanted to prove to myself that I didn't conform. When our parents were younger they fixed things, not just throw them away and buy a new one. So rather than buying a new one I decided to fix it.
Step 1: Fault Finding
This particular unit was a 22 inch Samsung TV which also had a VGA and HDMI input. The model number escapes me.
The TV started to flicker quite a lot then all of a sudden it just went black. Nothing seemed to bring it back. The power light was on, but nothing was on the screen.
Fault finding is by far the most difficult part of the whole operation. I had absolutely no clue how to go about finding the issue. But thankfully, I had Google. After an hour or so trawling Google I found a forum where someone was describing the exact same problem. The problem they described was to do with blown capacitors. They when on to say they paid £30 to have it fixed by a specialist TV Repair Company. This gave me more motivation to fix it.
Step 2: Tools Required
I don't have a photo for this step. but you'll need:
- Screwdrivers (various sizes)
- Soldering iron
- Solder
- Solder sucker
- Replacement components (59p for 2 820uF 25V capacitors. Purchased from Amazon)
- Wire cutters
Step 3: Identifying the Problem
First off, you need to turn the TV off and remove the power cable. You will then need to carefully open the case up. This can be quite tricky as there are a number of plastic clips that can break easily. Once you have carefully cracked open the case and removed the board you will need to identify the offending parts.
In this case those parts were 2 820uF 25v capacitors. You can see in the picture that both these capacitors are bulged at the top indicating they are blown. You may also see an oozy liquid at the top too.
Step 4: Desoldering the Blown Capacitors
Once you've found the offending components you will need to remove them from the board.
First, it is a good idea to mark the polarity of the capacitors on the board. This just makes it easier when you come to pop in the new ones.
To remove the blow capacitors carefully heat the solder around the bottom of the pins. Once it's liquefied, use the solder sucker to get rid of it. Repeat this for all of the pins.
Step 5: Soldering
Once the old capacitors are removed it is simply a case of putting the new ones in their place. It is important to get the polarity right. Otherwise you'll finish up and it won't work.
I'm no soldering expert so the soldering part was quite tricky but I got there in the end. I learnt how to solder by watching YouTube videos on the subject. There are lots of good ones out there. It’s imperative that you make a good connection with the solder, otherwise, again, it won't work.
Step 6: Reassemble
The reassembly part is very simple as long as you can remember how you took it apart.
Connect the screen back up and screw in the boards and replace the cover. This can be quire tricky so be careful.
Step 7: Step Back and Admire
If it all went to plan it should spring back to live once you've connected it back to the power supply.
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-a-broken-TV/
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