Collection How to Repair Sharp LCD/LED TV
1. This LCD TV Display Problem Can’t Be Repair!
Model: Sharp LC-32L400M-BK LCD TV
Symptom: Display Problem but Sound and Backlight Ok.
This Tv was brought from my repair friend. My friend’s complaint this TV symptom is display problem and suspects the T-con board is defective. So he asks me to help him solve this tv problem. Below is the TV display problem:
After saw this TV display symptom, from my experience so I can quickly judge this tv problem could be the T-con section or the lcd panel itself defective. After dismantle this TV, it was looks like this:
Since the LCD TV backlight lit, sound ok can be hear from the speakers and the Tv control buttons/keypad can be control, so suspect the problem is in the T-con board or lcd panel itself.
Because of this Tv T-con (Timing Control) section was build in the lcd panel Source Driver board there, so need to dismantle their lcd panel to checking the T-con section. Normally the Timing Control section is separated from the Panel to a board call T-CON board. If the T-con board, we can check their DC-DC voltages easily. But this Sharp lcd panel is different design, so most of the repairer when seen this type of lcd panel, they will just give up to repair and return back to the customer will lcd panel damage reason. If you have learn from my V3.0 LCD LED TV Repair Tips ebook (www.LCDRepairGuide.com), then you should know how to checking the T-con board or Timing Control section no wonder it is design in T-con board, LCD panel or in mainboard! You can use that knowledge to troubleshoot it. Below is the picture after dismantle this lcd panel:
After dismantle the lcd panel, their looks like the above picture. This lcd panel have 10 x Source Driver chips and 3 x Gate Driver chips. Below picture is this lcd panel part number:
Removed the metal shield, here is the location of T-con board + Source Driver Board:
Connected the lcd panel with mainboard, inverter board and Power Supply board (PSU) to checking the T-con section voltages. All the Vcc input and top 5 voltages are ok.
Because of these voltages normal, that’s mean their T-con DC-DC section is working properly. But why the display problem still persists? When look at the display problem, it was starting from the right hand side and then slowly to full screen. From here, I will try to checking the Gate Driver chips first. Found that G1 was extremely hot when touching their surface of the chip. Compare to other two Gate Driver chips, their temperature are normal and can be accepted. So suspect this G1 Gate Driver chip is defective!
The G1 Gate Driver chip has a little bend near the IC chip and this area is extremely hot! When spray some Coolant on it, the screen can show the display now! But with the horizontal line and can’t last long to hold it, and then back to same display symptom again. You can see the picture below:
So this LCD TV problem can’t be repair and I return it back to my friend and told him what’s wrong about this Tv.
Conclusion: I can learn something from this repair case. Can this LCD Panel be repair! Actually the answer is YES! If you have this Gate Driver Chip part and have the TAB/COF machine, so this symptom can be repair and problem solve.
2. Sharp LCD TV Screen is Dark
Question:
I have a 60" lcd sharp aquos.
The screen recently went black. The standby and power lights both work and went peered on the power light stays a solid blue. Tried the factory reset and it didn't work. Would like to fix it myself rather than spend a pile of money on a new TV. Any help input is greatly appreciated.
Answer:
try a "forced reset" (something like holding channel up and volume down, while plugging in to power... not sure of the sequence but search the net). Should force the set into service mode and cause the backlights to come on. Otherwise, try disconnecting the cables from the tcon card and see if what happens with the display... the side with cable disconnected (tcon should have two) should show up white. You can go from there depending on what happens. Are any of the lights flashing a "code"?
3. $5 TV Fix
One fine day, my TV stopped powering on. It was a shame since it wasn't brand new, but it still seemed to have plenty of life in it up to that point. After a little bit of searching around, I found this model had a common issue. A few TV repair shops quoted $200 or more for the work (and even they weren't sure they could fix it in the quoted time) and that seemed a bit much considering that was close to the cost of replacing the unit itself, so I wanted to see if I could fix it and keep it out of the junkyard.
Spoiler alert: yes. Yes I could.
As a note, I'll detail a bit of how I fixed it, but this is more of an Instructable about "good stubbornness" and finding the right resources if you're not already skilled in these types of things. If you are, you already know more than me. I tinker, but I'm not an engineer and never had training on this type of work. What I hope to impart is:
1) If you want to keep something out of a trash heap, especially a big, mostly-functional electronic box, be a bit stubborn. The internet is wonderful and many people have debugged things in popular models of consumer electronics and shared it in amazing detail (like on Instructables). Sometimes you might have to keep digging, but it's a fun puzzle.
2) If you don't have the skills to solve a certain problem yet, broken things are kinda great. First, they're already broken so it's not the same risks as taking apart a functional TV or other object, which can free you up to learn without as much pressure. Second, if you used it as a functioning object first, you know what state you're getting back to! Which is great and more bounded than creating something from scratch.
So with that, let's dive into the saga of my Sharp LCD Television Model LC32D43U...
Step 1: Debug, Isolate, & Find Resources
I found this short video that pertains to our model and several others have failed this same way. So I figured it was worth a shot!
(I originally used some specs from a link I can no longer open, but linking here anyway in case it works for someone else or at a later time.)
So what's up?
This model has a diode that often fails in the power supply, meaning the rest of the TV is probably in perfect working order. I unscrewed the back of my set with the TV gently laid down on a blanket and identified the area where I was looking for evidence of the broken parts. I could see enough to feel convinced my set suffered the same fate as all the other reports and bought the necessary parts.
Tip: I recommend taking photos at this point of your set while it's still mostly put together so you can refer to them when it comes time to put it back together. Also, put all the nuts&bolts in a bits box! You'll be thankful later.
I did the work by removing the power supply from the set (which was necessary anyway) but it also allowed me to travel lighter as I wasn't doing the soldering in my apartment. I put the broken part in a tupperware container and trekked across the city.
Tip: Given that this was my first time working through an issue like this, I bought extras. Each single part was inexpensive and I figured if I burned one while soldering, I'd rather have another handy.
If you have the same problem, here's the links for the two parts I bought to fix the set.
DIODE ZENER 150V 5W AXIAL
IC OFFLINE SWIT OTP OCP HV 8DIP
Safety tip: I consulted a friend with training in this space before beginning and wanted to share the same wisdom with this audience:
Before you begin, how much do you know about safety around electronics? Can you identify a capacitors? (Hint: They're the cylinders with the K or peace-sign looking indentation in top). Capacitors store energy, basically as a filter/buffer so that the not-so-clean power coming into your device from the wall can be smoothed out to make nice, clean, reliable amounts of power for the device to consume.
This is important for 2 reasons:
a) Capacitors can store a ton of energy. In old CRT TVs this was easily enough to kill you. With LCDs, it's still enough to give you a very solid jolt. At a minimum, leave the device unplugged for as long as possible before beginning work. Ideally you'll discharge them. Good info on how to do that is here: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm
b) Older capacitors are known to fail. Various batches from about 2002 until about 2010 had problems. It was a bigger problem with desktop computers, but not unique to computers. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague . If the caps on your board look like that, they might need to be replaced.
Fixing stuff is great! Always double check that you're being safe!
Step 2: Remove the Broken Parts
Once you're sure about safety, the actual replacement isn't hard. Everything is through-hole mounted and soldered in place. Removal is just a matter of desoldering, removing the old component, cleaning up any leftover solder, installing the new component, and then re-soldering the new component.
Can you see the burnt areas around the existing diode? This is how I knew the diode was the culprit of my power issues.
I removed them using a soldering iron and a 'solder sucker' to remove enough material that I could free the parts I needed to replace. (Note: the photo of the tools is from the link here and not mine - too tricky to take photos of this part yourself!)
Step 3: Add in the New Parts
Your new solder doesn't have to be pretty, but you don't want it so ugly that it touches any of the adjacent components or board traces that the original factory solder didn't touch.
Check out the board with the parts removed and slotted in.
Step 4: Kick Back and Watch TV!
In my case, this was the exact cause of the issue and I was able to fix it the first time through. Putting the set back together was straightforward - there's only one way for most things to fit - and this is where you'll be thankful to have those original images to refer to if you aren't sure.
Fun aside: I was fixing this in a community workspace (more brains to pick if I hit a snag!) and a group from Shanghai came through our San Francisco space. They asked what I was up to and really appreciated my drive to fix instead of replace and one person asked for a photo with me, so I asked for one in return!
I hope your TV doesn't break, but I hope if it does you also wonder if it's something you could fix yourself. In my case, I didn't need the fancy electronics setup you see here - just a soldering iron and the solder sucker (and some good ventilation!) But it's not just TVs - lots of things can have longer lives if we apply some good stubbornness and see what other knowledgable humans have shared so we can accelerate our own learning.
Thanks to all who helped me stretch my skillset comfort zone and complete this project successfully!
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/5-TV-Fix/
Related Post:
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Another 6 Pin SMD IC in LED & LCD TV/Monitor
To your success!
Kent Liew
http://www.LCD-Television-Repair.com
http://www.LCDRepairGuide.com
http://www.Plasma-Television-Repair.com
http://www.Projection-Tv-Repair.com
Model: Sharp LC-32L400M-BK LCD TV
Symptom: Display Problem but Sound and Backlight Ok.
This Tv was brought from my repair friend. My friend’s complaint this TV symptom is display problem and suspects the T-con board is defective. So he asks me to help him solve this tv problem. Below is the TV display problem:
After saw this TV display symptom, from my experience so I can quickly judge this tv problem could be the T-con section or the lcd panel itself defective. After dismantle this TV, it was looks like this:
Since the LCD TV backlight lit, sound ok can be hear from the speakers and the Tv control buttons/keypad can be control, so suspect the problem is in the T-con board or lcd panel itself.
Because of this Tv T-con (Timing Control) section was build in the lcd panel Source Driver board there, so need to dismantle their lcd panel to checking the T-con section. Normally the Timing Control section is separated from the Panel to a board call T-CON board. If the T-con board, we can check their DC-DC voltages easily. But this Sharp lcd panel is different design, so most of the repairer when seen this type of lcd panel, they will just give up to repair and return back to the customer will lcd panel damage reason. If you have learn from my V3.0 LCD LED TV Repair Tips ebook (www.LCDRepairGuide.com), then you should know how to checking the T-con board or Timing Control section no wonder it is design in T-con board, LCD panel or in mainboard! You can use that knowledge to troubleshoot it. Below is the picture after dismantle this lcd panel:
After dismantle the lcd panel, their looks like the above picture. This lcd panel have 10 x Source Driver chips and 3 x Gate Driver chips. Below picture is this lcd panel part number:
Removed the metal shield, here is the location of T-con board + Source Driver Board:
Connected the lcd panel with mainboard, inverter board and Power Supply board (PSU) to checking the T-con section voltages. All the Vcc input and top 5 voltages are ok.
Because of these voltages normal, that’s mean their T-con DC-DC section is working properly. But why the display problem still persists? When look at the display problem, it was starting from the right hand side and then slowly to full screen. From here, I will try to checking the Gate Driver chips first. Found that G1 was extremely hot when touching their surface of the chip. Compare to other two Gate Driver chips, their temperature are normal and can be accepted. So suspect this G1 Gate Driver chip is defective!
The G1 Gate Driver chip has a little bend near the IC chip and this area is extremely hot! When spray some Coolant on it, the screen can show the display now! But with the horizontal line and can’t last long to hold it, and then back to same display symptom again. You can see the picture below:
So this LCD TV problem can’t be repair and I return it back to my friend and told him what’s wrong about this Tv.
Conclusion: I can learn something from this repair case. Can this LCD Panel be repair! Actually the answer is YES! If you have this Gate Driver Chip part and have the TAB/COF machine, so this symptom can be repair and problem solve.
2. Sharp LCD TV Screen is Dark
Question:
I have a 60" lcd sharp aquos.
The screen recently went black. The standby and power lights both work and went peered on the power light stays a solid blue. Tried the factory reset and it didn't work. Would like to fix it myself rather than spend a pile of money on a new TV. Any help input is greatly appreciated.
Answer:
try a "forced reset" (something like holding channel up and volume down, while plugging in to power... not sure of the sequence but search the net). Should force the set into service mode and cause the backlights to come on. Otherwise, try disconnecting the cables from the tcon card and see if what happens with the display... the side with cable disconnected (tcon should have two) should show up white. You can go from there depending on what happens. Are any of the lights flashing a "code"?
3. $5 TV Fix
Spoiler alert: yes. Yes I could.
As a note, I'll detail a bit of how I fixed it, but this is more of an Instructable about "good stubbornness" and finding the right resources if you're not already skilled in these types of things. If you are, you already know more than me. I tinker, but I'm not an engineer and never had training on this type of work. What I hope to impart is:
1) If you want to keep something out of a trash heap, especially a big, mostly-functional electronic box, be a bit stubborn. The internet is wonderful and many people have debugged things in popular models of consumer electronics and shared it in amazing detail (like on Instructables). Sometimes you might have to keep digging, but it's a fun puzzle.
2) If you don't have the skills to solve a certain problem yet, broken things are kinda great. First, they're already broken so it's not the same risks as taking apart a functional TV or other object, which can free you up to learn without as much pressure. Second, if you used it as a functioning object first, you know what state you're getting back to! Which is great and more bounded than creating something from scratch.
So with that, let's dive into the saga of my Sharp LCD Television Model LC32D43U...
Step 1: Debug, Isolate, & Find Resources
I found this short video that pertains to our model and several others have failed this same way. So I figured it was worth a shot!
(I originally used some specs from a link I can no longer open, but linking here anyway in case it works for someone else or at a later time.)
So what's up?
This model has a diode that often fails in the power supply, meaning the rest of the TV is probably in perfect working order. I unscrewed the back of my set with the TV gently laid down on a blanket and identified the area where I was looking for evidence of the broken parts. I could see enough to feel convinced my set suffered the same fate as all the other reports and bought the necessary parts.
Tip: I recommend taking photos at this point of your set while it's still mostly put together so you can refer to them when it comes time to put it back together. Also, put all the nuts&bolts in a bits box! You'll be thankful later.
I did the work by removing the power supply from the set (which was necessary anyway) but it also allowed me to travel lighter as I wasn't doing the soldering in my apartment. I put the broken part in a tupperware container and trekked across the city.
Tip: Given that this was my first time working through an issue like this, I bought extras. Each single part was inexpensive and I figured if I burned one while soldering, I'd rather have another handy.
If you have the same problem, here's the links for the two parts I bought to fix the set.
DIODE ZENER 150V 5W AXIAL
IC OFFLINE SWIT OTP OCP HV 8DIP
Safety tip: I consulted a friend with training in this space before beginning and wanted to share the same wisdom with this audience:
Before you begin, how much do you know about safety around electronics? Can you identify a capacitors? (Hint: They're the cylinders with the K or peace-sign looking indentation in top). Capacitors store energy, basically as a filter/buffer so that the not-so-clean power coming into your device from the wall can be smoothed out to make nice, clean, reliable amounts of power for the device to consume.
This is important for 2 reasons:
a) Capacitors can store a ton of energy. In old CRT TVs this was easily enough to kill you. With LCDs, it's still enough to give you a very solid jolt. At a minimum, leave the device unplugged for as long as possible before beginning work. Ideally you'll discharge them. Good info on how to do that is here: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/captest.htm
b) Older capacitors are known to fail. Various batches from about 2002 until about 2010 had problems. It was a bigger problem with desktop computers, but not unique to computers. See https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague . If the caps on your board look like that, they might need to be replaced.
Fixing stuff is great! Always double check that you're being safe!
Step 2: Remove the Broken Parts
Once you're sure about safety, the actual replacement isn't hard. Everything is through-hole mounted and soldered in place. Removal is just a matter of desoldering, removing the old component, cleaning up any leftover solder, installing the new component, and then re-soldering the new component.
Can you see the burnt areas around the existing diode? This is how I knew the diode was the culprit of my power issues.
I removed them using a soldering iron and a 'solder sucker' to remove enough material that I could free the parts I needed to replace. (Note: the photo of the tools is from the link here and not mine - too tricky to take photos of this part yourself!)
Step 3: Add in the New Parts
Your new solder doesn't have to be pretty, but you don't want it so ugly that it touches any of the adjacent components or board traces that the original factory solder didn't touch.
Check out the board with the parts removed and slotted in.
Step 4: Kick Back and Watch TV!
In my case, this was the exact cause of the issue and I was able to fix it the first time through. Putting the set back together was straightforward - there's only one way for most things to fit - and this is where you'll be thankful to have those original images to refer to if you aren't sure.
Fun aside: I was fixing this in a community workspace (more brains to pick if I hit a snag!) and a group from Shanghai came through our San Francisco space. They asked what I was up to and really appreciated my drive to fix instead of replace and one person asked for a photo with me, so I asked for one in return!
I hope your TV doesn't break, but I hope if it does you also wonder if it's something you could fix yourself. In my case, I didn't need the fancy electronics setup you see here - just a soldering iron and the solder sucker (and some good ventilation!) But it's not just TVs - lots of things can have longer lives if we apply some good stubbornness and see what other knowledgable humans have shared so we can accelerate our own learning.
Thanks to all who helped me stretch my skillset comfort zone and complete this project successfully!
source: https://www.instructables.com/id/5-TV-Fix/
Related Post:
How to Solve LED/LCD TV Oil Painting Display Problem
New Technology Curved OLED TV Repairing Information
LED TV Randomly Can’t Power On, Randomly Power Shutdown and Randomly No Display
LED TV with Full Screen of Colorful Vertical Bars Problem Solved!
How to Soldering the Wire on cannot be Soldering Surface like Lithium Battery
A TCL L43F3800A-MT07P Smart LED TV with Problem Cannot Boot/Start-up
Collection How to Repair LCD/LED TV Image is Not Normal
Collection How to Repair Hisense LCD/LED TV
Collection How to Repair Konka LCD/LED TV
Another 6 Pin SMD IC in LED & LCD TV/Monitor
To your success!
Kent Liew
http://www.LCD-Television-Repair.com
http://www.LCDRepairGuide.com
http://www.Plasma-Television-Repair.com
http://www.Projection-Tv-Repair.com
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